Anna, Jenny and I were driving home from Taormina when the sky went from black to orange. The mountain ahead was outlined in flames! My heart sank as I recognized the proximity to our villa. Weirdly, the highway tunnel beneath the fire remained open and, thankfully, the sky was dark and clear when we exited.
Wildfires ravaged the island of Sicily during the summer of 2023. Several people died and many were injured. Residents were forced to evacuate. Homes and harvests were lost. It’s feared that climate change with its high temperatures and dry winds will continue to create problems for the island. We weren’t aware of this danger when we arrived in mid-October and would observe several more fires, along with their damage, in the weeks ahead.
We always liked Cefalù and it was fun to return after seeing scenes of the town in the new “Indiana Jones and the Dial of Destiny” movie.
CefalùCefalùCefalù
Coincidentally, two of our trips through Randazzo, the Black City, were with Nick. Credit to him for some of the photos.
What to do on a rainy day in Randazzo…RandazzoRandazzo
Several of our further away trips — Syracusa (Ortigia), Trapani, Erice, Noto, Savoca and Marzamemi — were planned around airport runs.
Ortigia is a small island and the historical centre of Syracusa.Ortigia, SyracusaOrtigia, SyracusaOrtigia, SyracusaOrtigia, SyracusaOrtigia, SyracusaFavorite restaurant in Trapani — the freshest and tastiest tuna anywhere!!!Trapani (photos by Nick)Trapani (photos by Nick)On the mountaintop beyond Trapani is the ancient mountain town of Erice.EriceEriceEriceSunset from the Erice-Trapani tramFavorite restaurant in NotoThe scenes in The Godfather when Michael meets Apollonia were filmed in Savoca.SavocaOur favorite restaurant in charming MarzamemiMarzamemiMarzamemiMarzamemi
And so ends our latest love letter to Sicily. Frank and I are so happy we could share a small slice of his beautiful “homeland” and pass on a little family history. The laughs, the food, the old movies, the great weather, even the crappy car and luggage debacles — all made for a wonderful and very memorable trip for all! Ciao for now!
If you’d like to read more about Sicily, take a peek at our other two trips to the island . . .
For our first trip in October 2015, click here Impressions of Sicily First roadtrip around the Island Mangia!
For our December 2017 trip, click here Sicilian Christmas Is Sicily An easy trip? A Guide to Sicilian Ways Second roadtrip around the island
While a few days in Milan was too short, a short stay in Venice was plenty. The city has always been near the top of my must-go list but, to be honest, I was ready to leave after four days. Don’t get me wrong, I am really happy we went. I loved what I saw. Venice is beautiful and magical and unlike any other place we’ve been. The food was incredible. Even the weather was ideal. I had read that it stunk. It did NOT. Our dissatisfaction stemmed from another, more commonly voiced complaint: too many people. Even in October, when it was supposedly “much less crowded than usual,” it felt more and more claustrophobic the longer we were there.
According to The Guardian, about 30 million people visit Venice each year. The majority of tourists come for just one day. They flock to the historic center to see St. Mark’s Square and the Rialto Bridge and to take a gondola ride.
Venice is a UNESCO World Heritage site: “Venice and its lagoon form an inseparable whole, of which the city of Venice is the pulsating historic heart and a unique artistic achievement. The influence of Venice on the development of architecture and monumental arts has been considerable.”
At the same time, the organization has warned that the impact of tourism on this fragile lagoon city is a major issue. Twice, they’ve threatened Venice with a “World Heritage in Danger” designation. Officials are working on various initiatives to preserve the city, while still creating a positive experience for tourists, and, more importantly, for its residents.
Regardless, and as two of those 30 million annual tourists, Frank and I agree that it is a city everyone should try to visit. Our time in Venice was truly unforgettable. Come take a look…
We took the amazing high speed train from Milan to Venice. As we exited the station, our jaws dropped. Just outside the doors was the Grand Canal! It was totally surreal.
Frank and I water-taxied to the Rialto Bridge and began the warned-about-by-former-traveler odyssey to our accommodations. The map made it look easy but the maze-like narrow streets/passageways (there are no cars) and the strain of lugging our bags up and down the canal bridge staircases presented a bit of a challenge.
Nonetheless, we found our way to the charming Istituto San Giuseppe, our home for the next four nights. The convent stay/preschool is run by nuns. The furnishings were sparse but comfortable. The only rules we had to follow were using an alternate door during the school day and adhering to an 11pm curfew (no issue for us!). Most important, the location was perfect!
Istituto San Giuseppe entranceIstituto San GiuseppeIstituto San Giuseppe
Now it was time for Frank and I to do what one does in Venice…
St Mark’s SquareSt Mark’s BasilicaSt Mark’s BasilicaSt Mark’s Basilica – even the floors are amazing!St Mark’s Campanile is the bell tower of St Mark’s BasilicaBuilt in 1340, the Doge’s Palace was the opulent residence of the Doge (the supreme authority) of Venice.Doge’s PalacePrisoners would get their last glimpse of Venice and freedom while crossing the Bridge of Sighs between the Doge’s residence and prison.Doge’s Palace PrisonBridge of Sighs from outsideThe Rialto Bridge is the oldest of four bridges spanning the Grand Canal.And, of course, we did the gondola ride!We went to the top of the chic Fondaco dei Tedeschi department store, where we got rooftop views of Venice.View from Fondaco dei Tedeschi roofView from Fondaco dei Tedeschi roof
We always make an effort to hit the local markets. The Rialto Market has been held in the same place for nearly 1,000 years!
Rialto MarketHand-size figs!!!
Check out the fresh seafood…
Speaking of food, like almost everywhere in Italy, Venice did not disappoint. The key was in discovering the established, little family restaurants and hitting the popular spots at off times. We had our favorite local place and found a few good bakeries. Venice is especially known for their bacaros, bars that serve a variety of tapa-like foods called cicchetti (chee-kett’-ee) with a glass of wine (un ombra). These are even quite popular for breakfast!
Osteria da Alberto was so good, we visited twice!Venetian cicchettiVenetian cicchettiBreakfast! Dell’Arco and Cantina do SpadeA favorite bakeryHarry’s Bar was an Ernest Hemingway hangout. $35 for a Bellini and ginger ale?!!
Frank and I took a water taxi to the Venetian islands of Murano and Burano.
Interesting how people are transported by boat to the hospital — no cars!Italian artist Lorenzo Quinn’s six pairs of arching hands create a bridge, symbolic of the need to build bridges and overcome divisions.MuranoMuranoMurano is famous for its glass.The restaurants in Murano feature glassware created by its artisans.The church of San Pietro Martire in MuranoGiovanni Bellini’s “Barbarigo Altarpiece” in the church of San Pietro Martire in MuranoColorful BuranoStanley Tucci recommended this restaurant in Burano so we HAD to go!A specialty of Burano, the bussolà are thick butter biscuits. They are a little hard but great with coffee.Burano is also famous for lace.Colorful BuranoColorful Burano
As I put this post together and relive the beauty that is Venice, the annoying crowds become a distant memory. Who knows? Maybe one day, we’ll come back…
Even the hospitals in Venice are beautiful!How can one ever complain about a place where you can take a water taxi right up to the airport terminal?!!
Our first post-Covid trip abroad and yes, it’s invigorating! Frank and I had never been to Italy’s mainland, so we opted to bookend our month in Sicily with three cities — Milan and Venice before and Rome afterwards.
Two sunny October days in Milan reminded us why we love to travel but also reminded us why we travel the way we usually do.
Why we love to travel? Utilizing the train and metro from the airport, we emerged from the dark underground to this…
From that moment on, Milan continued to take our breath away. After checking into our nearby Airbnb, we came back to tour the Duomo.
Confessional
The inside was stunning but those views from atop the Duomo’s rooftop terraces . . .
The Piazza del Duomo or Cathedral Square is the city’s main square and marks its center. To one side of the Cathedral is Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. The neoclassical landmark was built in 1871 and is home to many iconic fashion brands, including the first Prada store. It also houses one of Milan’s most famous — and expensive — pastry shops, Marchesi 1824.
In addition to the Duomo, we traveled to Milan to see Leonardo da Vinci’s “Last Supper.” The large wall painting is considered one of the world’s most fragile and is carefully conserved. Less than one thousand people a day (forty at a time) are allowed to visit the temperature-controlled room, which houses the masterpiece.
Milan Duomo
Thankfully, we found a little time to explore and eat.
Teatro alla Scala. We hope to catch a show here on our next trip.Charming Brera neighborhoodCharming Brera neighborhoodOrto Botanical di Brera (formerly run by the Jesuits and now by the University of Milan)Orto Botanical di BreraNow that’s a breakfast!Milan’s mass transit is efficient, clean and convenient.Milan, as well as most of Italy, has joined the recycle movement.Milan Central train stationMilan Central train stationCotoletta alla Milanese is a thin, delicate veal cutlet dipped in egg and breadcrumbs and sautéed in butter.Milan IS fashion.
Milan embodies a friend’s perfect characterization of the country, “Italy’s got it all — history, food, art, fashion. A few places have some of that but Italy does it best.”
And how did Milan speak to whywe usually travel the way we do? The clean, modern city left us wishing we had much more time — making us remember that we prefer to spend extended time getting to know a place rather than simply checking off a few (albeit very cool) tourist sights. Milan, we’ll be back!
To say social media has transformed the travel experience would be an understatement. The best things to see and do, what to eat — all, from self-described experts providing guidance, are a click away.
In our recent adventures through Italy, we were shocked by the ubiquitous number of decked out young women posing, pouting and twirling in front of strategically placed cellphones at nearly every tourist spot. Some dragged along “photographer” boyfriends or took turns with a similarly outfitted friend to showcase themselves and their travels. It made me wonder if this were just a Clark Griswold take-my-picture-and-go-to-the-next-spot or if (hopefully!) some were truly learning about and experiencing their location. I guess if it ultimately gets more people to go outside their comfort zone, travel and learn more about the world around them, it can be a good thing.
I never thought there could be more places for advice on where to eat than actual places to eat. Ten years ago, Trip Advisor was the online go-to for destination-based restaurants. If you had a positive experience, you were encouraged to “please leave a review.” But honestly, did you ever look at the list of “best” restaurants in your area? It’s a far cry from the restaurants I would pick or to where I would send someone.
My preferred selection method back then and now is “always ask a local.” If that’s not feasible, I will peruse specific websites (Michelin, thefork, Eater) to help winnow the dizzying array of food choices.
For the under 40 set, it’s social media. The viral videos and influencers of TikTok and Instagram often serve as culinary gurus. Fun example. When we arrived in Milan, the sidewalk across from our apartment was packed with an endless queue of twenty-somethings waiting to order a sandwich from “Con mollica o senza.”
The backstory was fascinating. One of the owners, Donato DeCaprio, began his sandwich career at a well-established Naples deli. As @donatodecaprio3, he filmed and posted hundreds of videos of himself making their sandwiches. “Con mollica o senza?” (“With the crumb or without”), he’d ask as he cut a roll or chunk of bread before piling on deli meat and cheese. He racked up over 1.5 million followers(!) before the owners made him stop filming. They did not appreciate the fuss over their “chaotic Italian sandwich man.” Unemployed, Donato partnered with another entrepreneur and opened their own sandwich shop in Naples. Videos resumed, their popularity grew and the restaurant was a hit. Four million followers later, Milan is their second location!
Frank and I didn’t get a chance to eat there but we did hit up another Instagram-famous sandwich shop in Rome. One night, we randomly joined a block-long queue while wandering our Piazza Navona neighborhood (“If there’s a long line, it’s gotta be good, right?”) I smiled as fellow patrons took selfies and live streamed themselves eagerly waiting in line.
A half hour later, I merrily crossed the threshold and placed our order at the All’antico Vinaio counter.
OMG! To say it was the best sandwich I’ve ever had would be the second understatement of this post. La Quarantina: roast suckling pig, gorgonzola and cream of pistachio on fresh baked focaccia — walking home, I literally could not stop eating it! I further confess to going back a second night and waiting in an even longer line for the same sandwich! While All’antico Vinaio has yet to be elevated to a Michelin mention, I have discovered that good local restaurant recommendations can also be procured through social media — @allanticovinaiofirenze’s 766K (+1!) Instagram followers aren’t wrong!
It had been a couple of years since we’d been to New York City, so we decided to go there to celebrate Frank’s birthday and check out Andy’s new place.
His apartment, on the edge of Chelsea near Madison Square Garden, is super comfortable and sports some great views.
Apartment view of the Empire State Building!
I’ve come to love summertime in NYC. The weather is comfortable and it is so much easier to get around.
Union Square GreenmarketFotografiskaTerry O’Neill “Stars” exhibition at Fotografiska
NY Eats
Gotta have NY style pizza and we never miss the bombolini at Sullivan Street BakeryAndy turned us on to Ess-a-bagel. We ordered the NY standard “baconeggandcheese” and tried their specialty in partnership with Magnolia Bakery — a Banana Pudding bagel. OMG.Off to Chinatown to hunt down my favorite Singapore dessert.Kopitan was the right place to find it but, sadly, they only featured my Kueh Salat desert on weekends. A suggestion to combine the two desserts they did have came very close and satisfied my craving!A highlight of this trip was seeing our friends Peter and Jo and meeting their two boys.
Breakfast at Tiffany’s
Andy surprised me with a reservation to a New York’s hot spot — Tiffany’s new Blue Box Cafe. Tasty and so fancy!!!
Frank has been an avid baseball fan since he was a kid. Andy shares this passion and suggested we take a weekend trip to the Baseball Hall of Fame in Cooperstown. I enjoyed it, too, but the best part was watching them “geek out” on decades of baseball memorabilia!
A behind the scenes tour gave us a unique opportunity to view some of the museum’s private collection, including Ty Cobb’s mitt and a pair of NY Yankee Derek Jeter’s batting gloves. Andy was super excited to hold them!
Frank “at Ebbett’s Field”Andy’s YankeesThe exhibits on baseball themed movies and the section on broadcasting and media was really interesting for me.There were some fun “personal connections” like seeing Harry Carey’s glasses. The boys had met him outside Wrigley Field.Left: Frank got a job for Shelly Ferguson as a driver when Mr. 3000 shot in Milwaukee. Right: Broadcaster Dick Enberg and Frank both received honorary doctorates from Marquette University on the same day. Go Brewers!
Left: Miller Park exhibit and Commissioner Bud Selig’s HOF plaque. Bud’s book is on the shelf (last one on the end) in the office where we got our behind-the-scenes tour. Frank is mentioned in the book. Does that mean Frank is actually in the Baseball Hall of Fame?!!!
Go Yankees!
On Frank’s actual birthday, we went to a Yankees game. It was cool to see superstar Aaron Judge.We even made the Jumbotron! (bottom left)
Topping off the day was the world’s largest birthday sundae at Serendipity. A wonderful day and a wonderful trip!
I’d fly back to San Francisco and drive up to Yountville just to eat at Ad Hoc. Run by Chef Thomas Keller of triple-Michelin-star French Laundry fame, the family-style comfort food restaurant offers a fixed menu of one dish per day. Kim, Frank and I enjoyed ours with a side order of Ad Hoc’s famous buttermilk fried chicken. Plan ahead, make a reservation and prepare to be blown away. Everything was delicious but I’m still dreaming about that chicken!
Frank and I had the perfect reason for finding our way to San Jose — visiting Nick and Kim in their new home! We had fun cooking together and we learned about composting. We saw old friends and met new friends. And someone had fun celebrating April Fools Day!
Meng and his beautiful kidsChristian, Christian, Kim and NickWho did this?Shopping at snazzy Santana RowWhen not cooking at home, we found a lot of tasty eats in and around San Jose. There were some fabulous Mexican restaurants and we had brunch at plant-based Wildseed. Who’d have thought Frank would ever order red velvet flaxseed pancakes?!! And he loved them!
Roadtripping the Bay Area
Shark Fin CoveSanta CruzSan Francisco boundJust like his Mork suspenders!Nick structured our SF visits around his favorite food spots.Tartine croissants — the best!!!OuterlandsNick’s favorite artisan chocolate factoryDandelion ChocolateBeing a tech area, we weren’t totally surprised to see driverless car testing but it was a bit unnerving.Mission Delores Park in San FranciscoMission Delores Park in San FranciscoSan Francisco’s Presidio Tunnels ParkSan Francisco’s Presidio Tunnels Park
We had such a lovely visit with Nick and Kim and it was good to see how their married life in San Jose is taking shape.
Now, getting back to that 60’s song from Dionne Warwick. Our “… way to San Jose” included fun stops in Las Vegas (previous post) and Denver to see Mary, who had recently moved to the city. She has a beautiful home and has built a wonderful life there.
… if you don’t want to gamble? There’s plenty to do. Anticipating March’s 70 degree average temperatures and sunny skies, our plan was to spend a good amount of time hanging out by the pool, soaking up the rays and drinking Pina coladas. Or not. The pool was closed, the winds were brisk and we were lucky if the temperature hit 50. We pivoted and still had a great time!
Our vacation buddies Magugu and JoeLook who was in town for a bachelor party?!!Too chilly for the golf course but we enjoyed a fun afternoon at Top Golf.Our hotel was nice. It was connected to the Planet Hollywood Mall with some great shopping, plus we found a fun restaurant!Our suite was roomy and comfortable with a bedroom on each side. The views weren’t bad either : )The Sphere was just being completed and we watched the various lighting combinations.We took full advantage of the projector and gigantic screen to watch movies and March Madness. The basketball players were life-size and Frank felt like he was courtside!
And, best of all, Joe and Magugu had rented a car. Time for some mini roadtrips!!!
Hoover DamHoover DamHoover DamRed Rock CanyonRed Rock Canyon
And then we had fun just driving around Vegas — an amazing dinner in the Downtown Art’s District and simply enjoying the lights and sights from the comfort of our warm car!
Waltzing Wanderers 5 