Dual Citizenship!

So proud to honor my grandmother’s legacy as Frank and I are now dual citizens of Croatia and official Croatian/European Union passport holders!

Why Croatia? I am a mixture of many ethnicities but, growing up, I was very close to my mom’s mother. Anne Zetich Dunn was a strong woman and wonderful role model. Obtaining dual citizenship creates a tangible link, permanently and officially connecting our family to her homeland and history.

Anne spent most of her childhood in Donji Miholjac, a small village near the Hungarian border. She was five when her parents came to the United States. Anne remained back (in what was then Yugoslavia), under the care of her grandmother. She had happy memories of her childhood and spoke of picnics and swimming in a river. Her grandmother would help care for the King and Queen’s children at a summer palace, which was located in their town. Anne would tag along and play with the young princes and princesses.

Her parents came back for her when she was ten. Anne did not want to leave her grandmother and the only home she had ever known. She tried to run away several times before the family boarded a ship and set sail for the United States. They arrived in Key West, Florida, via Havana, Cuba, on the SS Cuba on June 29, 1921. The family made their home in Milwaukee.

As a young woman, Anne rented a small room near her workplace, Holeproof Hosiery. She became good friends with her landlords’ daughters, Lucille and Marie. My mom remembered a story about Anne and Lucille climbing out the bathroom windows of speakeasies to escape Prohibition police raids! Her landlords also had a son, John Norman (Nor), who was in the Merchant Marines. When he came home from the service, Anne and Nor met and fell in love. The couple married in 1936 and had four children — Sandra (my mother), Judith, Carole and Robert.

Nor died tragically of a heart attack when their youngest, Bob, was only 3, leaving Anne to raise their children on her own. Their apartment manager kicked them out, “How can a woman with four kids manage to pay rent?” But Anne was strong. She got a job driving a delivery truck for Metal Treating (16th and Pierce) and the family moved into a family cottage on Friess Lake.

My mom recalls that time, “Mother had to drive back and forth to work every day.  She loved driving and really enjoyed her job. When fall came, she enrolled Bob in daycare and we all drove with her to school.  We lived at the cottage until early December when the priest at St. Leo’s persuaded the owner of an upper flat to rent to us.  Good thing, too, as it was getting pretty cold at the Lake – remember, we had a hand pump inside for water but no indoor toilet, and an oil burning stove for heat.” 

She continued. “It was a matter of pride for my mother that she never went on welfare. We never had much money but there was always good food on the table and a lot of love.” 

Anne never completed high school but insisted on a good education for her children. All of them attended Catholic grade school (St. Leo’s) and graduated from Catholic high school (Messmer).

My mom was the first of Anne’s children to marry. Anne was disappointed when the newlyweds bought a house in “far away” Brookfield. As the area and population grew, however, Anne was soon making deliveries out west. My father was a patrolman at the time. Every time he’d see her truck coming through Brookfield, he’d flip on his squad car lights and siren and pull her over. It unnerved but made her laugh her every time.

As a grandmother, Anne was kind and generous. She worked during the week but every Saturday, she would bring us ham and rolls from National T. Afterwards, she and my aunt Judi (and sometimes my mom and I) would go shopping at the mall. Judi and her family had moved into a house down the street from us. We’d love going to Grandma’s house for dinner as she was a great cook. At Christmas, her tree would be decorated with tinsel and she’d spoil us all with lots of presents! My mom said when they were little, they never had a tree until they all woke up Christmas morning because Santa brought it — can you imagine doing it all by yourself in one night while kids are sleeping?!!

Our family spent a lot of summer days at the Friess Lake cottage. All six of us kids were good swimmers. I loved staying overnight and playing canasta with Grandma and my mom well into the night. I always felt so “grown up.” As I got older, she’d often take me shopping and slip me gas money.

Our family was devastated when Grandma died suddenly in 1979, days before her 68th birthday. I was 18 years old.

* * *

The Process

Frank and I planned to visit Croatia just before the Covid pandemic hit. Grounded from travel, I dug into some family history and decided to look into dual citizenship. I briefly considered Italy but the process was confusing, cumbersome and expensive. In addition, potential citizenship for Frank would not extend to me. 

The Croatian process, in contrast, was straightforward and — bonus! — Frank and the boys could apply at the same time. The Croatian Consulate in Chicago was so helpful. The government agencies in Croatia (via email utilizing Google Translate) were very responsive and helped me track down birth and marriage records. They were quick to send documentation and, unlike the US, never requested a fee(!).

I ran into one major roadblock a bit closer to home. Requisite marriage certificates document the surname evolution for women; in our case, Zetich to Dunn to Wolff to Busalacchi. No one had a record of my grandmother and grandfather’s marriage and I was stuck on where to look. Relatives their age had all passed away. My mom and Aunt Judi had no clue and my Uncle Bob thought it “might have been at a courthouse?” Milwaukee County had no record of the marriage. Neither did the Archdiocese of Milwaukee. I tried contacting individual churches in the neighborhoods where the families lived. Still, no luck. How could I apply without my grandmother’s marriage certificate? Frustrated, I mentioned my dilemma to someone at the Milwaukee Historical Society. “Have you tried Waukegan, Illinois?” he asked.

It turns out that Waukegan was the Las Vegas of their time. I found this article by Beth Dippel of the Sheboygan County Historical Research Center. Here are some excerpts.

A Chicago-area newspaper headline announced, “Waukegan Nuptials, Not Romantical, but Speedy.” This humorous, if misspelled title accurately characterized the once busy marriage destination of the Midwest. Waukegan was, for decades, a place where eloping was big business — there was no waiting, little cost and no questions were asked…

…The town catered to young people in love. Couples looking to marry did not have to adhere to Wisconsin’s five-day waiting period and this town was just over the Illinois border. Prior to autos being available, the Chicago, Milwaukee and North Shore Electric Railway brought couples directly to Waukegan…

An online search unearthed a Cook County (Waukegan) Marriage Record Request Form. I filled it out and mailed it, along with a check and self-addressed stamped envelope. And then I waited. 

The return envelope arrived in our mailbox a couple weeks later. I nervously tore it open.

The mystery was solved! My grandmother and grandfather had indeed eloped and got married in Waukegan — on December 9, 1936 by a Justice of the Peace to be exact! I now had a certified copy of the marriage certificate and could proceed with my project.

With documents gathered, background checks completed and apostilles and translations secured, Frank, Nick, Andy and I submitted our paperwork to the Croatian Consulate in Chicago in September, 2022. We were accepted and received our Domovnica, or certificate of Croatian citizenship, a year later. This week, Frank and I are in possession of our new passports.

I would love my Grandma to have met Frank and the boys but through this project they got to learn about her and will forever be connected to the country where she came from. Meanwhile, we’ll get back to planning that trip — but now, we will be able to arrive as citizens.

Roma

Rome wasn’t built in a day and there is no way you can see everything in a day or a week or a month. And we didn’t try. We discovered Rome is a city to be savored — and I’m not just talking about food. The week was spent in our customary slow-travel mode. We wandered and explored neighborhoods and limited ourselves to one tour or main activity per day. And, yes, we ate a lot of wonderful Italian food!

Our airbnb was located near Piazza Navona on Via del Governo Vecchio. The balcony overlooked the narrow lane and provided endless entertainment. At night, we’d cringe as cars squeezed their way through lively crowds swarming the countless restaurants, many of which had further bottlenecked passage with outdoor seating. Come morning, the streets were eerily quiet. Awnings had been rolled up and tables tucked inside. Drivers handily made deliveries along the (relatively) spacious thoroughfare as the city awoke and as parents walked their children to school.

Frank and I were thrilled Deanna could join us for the first couple days. She, like us, had never been to the “Eternal City.” A three-hour golf cart excursion provided an overview of several major sights, a brief history lesson and a chance for us to get our bearings. The guide skillfully circumvented Rome’s infamous traffic, reaffirming our wise decision not to rent a car.

The keyhole of the Knights of Malta wasn’t on the agenda but our guide indulged me. He said the unusual spot had become very popular on social media. We hit it at a great time and joined the unusually short queue. The keyhole perfectly framed a view of Saint Peter’s Basilica!
Right, middle: The view didn’t photograph well.
Bottom, right: I pulled that last picture from the internet so you can see what we saw : )

When in Rome…

(Top) The Victor Emmanuel II National Monument was completed in 1935 to honor a unified Italy’s first King. Frank was amazed to find that, upon completion, ten or twelve of the workers had dinner at a table in the horse’s hollow stomach — illustrating just how massive the monument is!

(Below) The Circus Maximus is an ancient Roman chariot-racing stadium. It could seat 250,000 people and another 250,000 could watch from the surrounding hillside! I just found out they now run some cool virtual reality tours where one can walk around the ring surrounded by racing chariots! How cool is that? 

Beauty around every corner

Vatican City, Fig Leaves and St. John Lateran

We knew Deanna would want to see Vatican City so I ordered tickets for Pope Francis’ General Audience in Saint Peter’s Square. Most Wednesday mornings, the Holy Father travels through the square in his Popemobile, prays with and then blesses the crowd. The three of us arrived early and secured some great seats along the route, just a few feet away from the Pope as he and his entourage wheeled past.

After Deanna left, Frank and I went back to Vatican City to see Saint Peter’s Basilica and the Sistine Chapel, as well as to tour some of the Vatican Museums.

The Fig Campaign

Having visited my fair share of museums, there were a LOT of statues in the Vatican Museums and one had to wonder about the fig leaves. Not that I wanted to see what was under them(?!), but I had no idea the Romans were so modest . . .

Up until the 1400’s, Roman art took much of its inspiration from the Greeks, with the naked body symbolizing purity, honor and virtue.

In the 1500’s, the Vatican Council of Trent proclaimed themselves the modesty police and launched a censorship campaign stating that nudity was immodest and sinful. Fig leaves became the cover of choice for statues. They started with Michelangelo’s David, which was provided with a marble fig leaf (removed in 1912).

When Michelangelo was contracted by the Pope to paint the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel, he was instructed to repaint — add clothing or camouflage — any nude figures.

Now you know what I know.

St. John Lateran and a dash of serendipity

And did you know that St. Peter’s Basilica is not actually the Pope’s Church? While St. Peter’s is the seat of the Catholic Church, the official home (though not the residence) of the Pope is the Basilica of St. John Lateran. Located a few miles outside Vatican City, it is the only church in the world often referred to as an Archbasilica, signifying its precedence over all other Catholic churches. The church was founded in 324, making it is the oldest church in the western Roman Empire. Destroyed by fires and an earthquake and rebuilt several times, popes resided here for several centuries until the papal court moved to France in 1309. By the time they returned to Rome in 1377, the Lateran Palace had deteriorated and burned down. The Pope’s residency was moved to the Vatican, where it remains today. St. John Lateran, however, is still considered the mother church of the Roman Catholic faithful and the official church of the bishop of Rome, the Pope. So let’s go take a look…

Naturally the Mass was in Italian. It was easy to follow but Frank remained curious about the homily. After Mass, he approached a parishioner who, thankfully, spoke English. “Could you explain how the priest tied the readings together and what he said in his homily?” Turned out that she, LeeAnn, was originally from Minnesota(!) and had lived in Rome for forty years. “I have someone who can answer that question better than I if you can wait a moment.”

She returned a few minutes later with a proposition. “A few of us always have lunch together with Don Carlo (the priest). He asked if you’d like to join us and he’d be happy to explain his homily.” My mind went into overdrive — it was our last day, we had to pack, we had shopping to do — so many reasons to say no. “Of course! We’d love to!” And what a wonderful afternoon it turned out to be!

Before heading over to the rectory, LeeAnn led us into a small office. To our surprise, she explained that we were NOT in the St. John Lateran Basilica. This building was part of the complex and was the Baptistery — the world’s oldest, built in the 4th century alongside the Basilica by Emperor Constantine.

The sun was starting to set as we left the rectory and were directed to the actual Basilica, just around the corner. OK, this looks more like an Archbasilica!

Mangia!!!

I just read if you spell Roma backwards it spells amor — love. I have to say, Frank and I pretty much loved everything about Rome. If you’ve been here or if you go, I’m sure there are different things you’ll choose to see and do but I think we can all agree on one thing — we all LOVE Italian food. From morning cappuccino and bomboloni to takeaway to fine dining to dessert, Rome did not disappoint!

Sicily, Chapter 3

Our October trip to Sicily was our third since 2015. Like before, we were staying in the same villa near Capo d’Orlando (ancestral home of Frank’s mother’s side); and, like before, Nick and Andy would come. But Frank and I knew the coming four weeks would be a very different trip. Our plan was to share our little piece of Sicily with several family members that had never been before. This resulted in a vibrant, revolving door of guests (and a lot of airport runs!). We set the maximum to three at one time (one carful including us) and limited the driving to a 2-hour radius. Although we discovered a few new things, the parameters resulted in a repeat of many of our favorite destinations and activities, but it didn’t matter — we got to experience them afresh through the eyes of each guest!

Home sweet home

The Eats

We were excited to share one of our most memorable traditions with our guests — having L’ Aquilone caretaker Tano (a chef) and his wife Sara (his sous chef) prepare traditional Sicilian dinners. Tano’s specialty is preparing the day’s fresh-caught seafood. He also treated us to bottle of his own olive oil — so buttery and flavorful and one he graciously replenished!

Capo d’Orlando: same and different

Frank and I happily revisited our favorite Capo d’Orlando meat market and bakeries. And, of course, we dined several times at the area’s best family-run restaurant, La Perla.

The owner of our villa told us about a hidden gem just past La Perla. At the end of a narrow, bumpy dirt road was a tiny house. Inside, a woman and her grandmother operated a small bakery. We timed our visits to coincide with the morning’s bread coming out of the oven. And none of us could get enough of their flaky and very buttery croissants. Plain? Chocolate? Nutella or custard filled? All amazing!

The weather was unseasonably warm and comfortable — low 70s — for our whole time in Sicily. We made several trips to the Capo beaches and dipped our toes in the tepid Tyrrhenian Sea.

New to Capo d’Orlando is its modern and may I say, quite fancy for its surroundings, marina. In addition to a wide assortment of monohulls, catamarans and yachts docked in the harbor, the complex housed several restaurants, shops and a small hotel. (It was definitely a happy place for Andy!)

Naso: home of Spano family and Lady Gaga

From the coastal town of Capo d’Orlando, the villa is a winding, ten minute drive up the mountain. Five minutes further and you arrive at the mountaintop town of Naso. Naso and Capo d’Orlando were originally one community and there are several Spano (Frank’s mother’s maiden name) graves in the Naso cemetery. The town is also the ancestral home of Lady Gaga (real name Germanotta). We made several trips here as they had a coffee shop that served wonderful croissants and cappuccino. They also had Frank’s favorite cookies — tetùs, a dense chocolate cookie with white frosting. I bake them for him at Christmas but in Sicily, they are only available from mid-October to early November to celebrate Day of the Dead. Every time we went in the shop and they had those cookies, Frank bought them out!

If you’ve arrived here from the email notifying you of this Sicily post, I’ve divided up the previously much longer version to help with the downloading.
Click here to read about and continue with the entire trip.

Sicilian Harvest

The island of Sicily is incredibly fertile. A major producer of olives and grapes, the soil and climate is also well-suited for eggplant, tomatoes, citrus, pistachios, figs and more. Climate change presents major challenges to growers from how to ward off fires to adjusting cultivation methods. Our vineyard tour guide touched on this briefly as we sampled new fall wine. Many of the restaurants and our local grocery store featured fresh, locally grown produce and we were delighted to share in the richness of the island’s fall bounty.

Jenny and Anna were with us when we got invited to our neighbor’s olive harvest. After witnessing the laborious process, I will never ever complain about the high price of olive oil!

Out and About

Festivals

A few of our days and a couple roadtrips centered on Sicilian festivals, events where you can get a real feel for local life. We were fortunate to be in Capo d’Orlando once again for their annual religious festival. It was fun sharing the centuries old tradition with Anna and Jenny.

Frank and I had gone to Floresta’s Mushroom Festival in 2015. The mountain town now holds four consecutive weekend festivals featuring a plethora of tasty food choices. We knew Debbie and Red would love it — and they did!

Frank had been on an unsuccessful hunt for a good sausage sandwich (in Sicily? go figure!) so we decided to scope out the Black Pig Festival in Cesarò with Jenny and Sabiha.

Santo Stefano di Camastra

We took many of our guests to nearby Santo Stefano, the pretty little town known for its colorful ceramics.

Do you know the story of the iconic Sicilian ceramic heads? Although there are many variations, The Times of Sicily explains, “The original folk tale comes from Palermo and tells of a Saracen merchant who falls in love with a beautiful local girl. Together they start a passionate love affair, until the girl discovers her lover has a wife and children waiting for him in his homeland. In a fit of jealously and rage she murders him in his sleep, cutting off his head, so that her lover would stay with her forever. The girl uses the head as a vase to grow a beautiful basil plant.”

Taormina, Wine and The White Lotus

The story of the heads is mentioned in HBO’s hit series, The White Lotus. The show’s plot revolves around wealthy, entitled guests staying at ritzy resorts. The latest season (2023) was based in Taormina at the Four Seasons San Domenico Palace. Although the scenic, mountain-top Sicilian town was already a highlight for cruise ship passengers enjoying high-end shopping, the show introduced Taormina to a wide new audience, many of whom have now added it to their bucket lists.
(Photo credit to Fabio Lovino/Courtesy of HBO)

Several of us tried to peek inside the now celebrated hotel but the staff would have none of it. “Our esteemed guests pay for the luxury of privacy.”

We weren’t surprised nor terribly disappointed. Besides shopping, Taormina is a wonderful destination with scenic vistas, good restaurants and bars and fun people watching. Everyone wanted to go to Taormina!

Sicilian Wine

Nick inadvertently navigated us to another White Lotus set location, the Planeta winery, as we searched for a vineyard lunch. Unfortunately, the buildings were closed but we walked around and took pictures at this stunning property on the north side of Mount Etna. The family-run Planeta has five wine estates circling the island, each with its own staff specializing in the distinctive characteristics of that region. Frank and I decided to return with Jenny for their “Flavors of the Volcano” wine and olive oil tasting and tour.
(Photos from “White Lotus” courtesy of HBO)

Majestic Mount Etna

Fire!

Anna, Jenny and I were driving home from Taormina when the sky went from black to orange. The mountain ahead was outlined in flames! My heart sank as I recognized the proximity to our villa. Weirdly, the highway tunnel beneath the fire remained open and, thankfully, the sky was dark and clear when we exited.

Wildfires ravaged the island of Sicily during the summer of 2023. Several people died and many were injured. Residents were forced to evacuate. Homes and harvests were lost. It’s feared that climate change with its high temperatures and dry winds will continue to create problems for the island. We weren’t aware of this danger when we arrived in mid-October and would observe several more fires, along with their damage, in the weeks ahead.

Here and there

Tindari and the Church of the Black Madonna

We always liked Cefalù and it was fun to return after seeing scenes of the town in the new “Indiana Jones and the Dial of Destiny” movie.

Coincidentally, two of our trips through Randazzo, the Black City, were with Nick. Credit to him for some of the photos.

Several of our further away trips — Syracusa (Ortigia), Trapani, Erice, Noto, Savoca and Marzamemi — were planned around airport runs.

And so ends our latest love letter to Sicily. Frank and I are so happy we could share a small slice of his beautiful “homeland” and pass on a little family history. The laughs, the food, the old movies, the great weather, even the crappy car and luggage debacles — all made for a wonderful and very memorable trip for all! Ciao for now!

If you’d like to read more about Sicily, take a peek at our other two trips to the island . . .

For our first trip in October 2015, click here
Impressions of Sicily
First roadtrip around the Island
Mangia!


For our December 2017 trip, click here
Sicilian Christmas
Is Sicily An easy trip? A Guide to Sicilian Ways
Second roadtrip around the island